Chefs wEE Love: Nacxi Gaxiola, Pulqueria

Chef Nacxi Gaxiola, Pulqueria
Photo: http://nacxi.blogspot.com/

by Sarah Mintz, Contributing Writer

Down on windy Doyer Street, you can find Nom Wah Tea Parlor, the famous dim-sum spot in Chinatown that has withstood the test of time (open since1927) and still flaunts both its faded red and yellow awning and wide selection of teas. Also on Doyer Street, you will find the Chinatown branch of the US Postal Service, Ting's Gift Shop, and a few reasonably priced barber shops. While the rest of Chinatown buzzes a few blocks away, the 200-foot curved street has an eerie and somewhat empty feel to it. However, greatness is to be discovered if you step into Pulqueria and taste the spicy brilliance of Chef Nacxi Gaxiola. Blink and you'll miss the entrance and one of the most exciting and delicious Mexican dining destinations in Manhattan.

Chef Gaxiola grew up in Mexico City (hence Pulqueria!), but he studied Physics and Chemistry in school to become a chemist...or an actor. Go figure. Growing up with parents who worked a lot, Nacxi learned to cook on his own. No one in Gaxiola's family has a history in restaurants. Besides his grandmother who shared the secrets to the perfect flan, he is a self-taught chef. He always liked science, but never thought about applying it to cooking.

Then life happened. Naxci's college in Mexico went on strike for about nine months and he found himself as a dishwasher at a local restaurant while tutoring students in Math and French on the side. Nacxi eventually moved to the United States and found his way to working underneath the world-renowned Wiley Dufrane at WD-50. Due to visa issues, Nacxi moved back to Mexico and dedicated the next three years of his life to researching and learning Mexican cuisine. Food became his passion and New York became his ideal playground.

Enchiladas de Jamaica, Pulqueria

Gaxiola made a name for himself at La Superior in Williamsburg before being hired by Chris and Heather Tierney, the brother and sister duo behind Apotheke the hidden cocktail bar conveniently located next door to Pulqueria on Doyer Street under the red awning that reads "Gold Flower Restaurant."

Like most restaurants in New York, Pulqueria took longer than expected to open. The extra year gave Gaxiola time to develop the menu he dreamed of, bringing foods from his native Mexico City and other regional cuisines. Honestly, where else in New York can you find a menu offering Mayan pumpkin dip alongside pig's feet tostadas and hibiscus flower enchiladas? Only at Pulqueria. 

Mayan pumpkin dip, Pulqueria

Chef Nacxi's favorite Pulqueria dishes? The pescado pibil, an entree that combines dishes from two different Mexico regions. Other menu favorites include the pork shank for two, salsa sampler, and mole poblano.

Hardest ingredients Nacxi is working with these days? Pigs feet and cactus. Can't argue with him on that one.

What will Chef Nacxi not eat? As most chefs, Nacxi will eat mostly anything, but hates "dusty" beans including peas, favas and garbanzos. Don't expect to find these beans on the menu anytime soon!

Favorite NY restaurant? Traif in Williamsburg. 

Favorite cooking technique? Frying semi-liquids, a Mexican technique and his favorite way to add flavor.

Assortment of tacos, Pulqueria 

Chef Nacxi is already making tweaks to his menu based on what customers want. He realizes that there are many misconceptions about Mexican cuisine - that it's all about big dishes and filling burritos. Nacxi is making an attempt to shrink larger menu items and build a solid tasting menu. I couldn't agree with him that giving less in terms of quantity and more in terms of flavor profiles is key to understanding the many different Mexican regional cuisines.

You wouldn't know that Pulqueria has only been open a few months, since Gaxiola and Pulqueria's popularity has led to the launch of a Sunday brunch menu. Previously closed on Sundays, Pulqueria is now offering brunch fare including chilaquiles, enchiladas, budin azteca and a full range of egg dishes from noon to 6pm. Keep your eyes peeled for blood sausage coming to the menu soon.

Pulqueria; 11 Doyers Street nr. Bowery, Phone 212.227.3099

wEE recommend Pulqueria for: Fun dinner with the guys/girls, birthday celebrations, fantastic cocktail list, boozy brunch, Chinatown gem. 

Recommendations for: Cinco de Mayo in NYC

Where will you be donning your sombrero this weekend? Here are our favorite picks for Saturday's fiesta!
by Sarah Mintz, Contributing Writer

Empellon 230 W 4th Street nr. 10th St.

The hottest chef of the moment, Alex Stupak is offering a five-course prix-fixe menu at Empellon Taqueria and Empellon Cocina. Both will include an open-bar of margaritas, beer and sparkling wine for $75-$90. The menu includes chorizo queso fundido and six types of tacos including a must-try, the lamb barbacoa. dishes such as Ruby Red Shrimp with Crispy Masa, Mezcal Cured Ocean Trout, and Melted Tetilla Cheese with Lobster. Both locations have 3 seatings at 5pm, 7:15pm & 9:30pm and reservations are going fast - this is the spiciest ticket in town!

Get your drink on at Hecho en Dumbo

Credit: Robyn Lee, Serious Eats

Hecho en Dumbo 354 Bowery nr. Stanton St. 

We love us some Danny Mena, especially on the fourth drunkest holiday of the year. In true celebration of the Battle of Puebla, Mena will feature a battle of Pueblan delicacies - Mole Poblano and Las Monjas de Santa Rosa. In gringo terms, this means two awesome sauces that are going to ordain all your food the entire day. This all-day party will start at brunch and continue through dinner service with Mexico City's own Juan Cicerol performing live at 11pm. 

Pulqueria 11 Doyers Street nr. Bowery

Who says Cinco de Mayo can only be celebrated one day a year? Not Pulqueria! Festivities start on Friday, May 4 and last through Sunday, May 6. Stop by to taste Pulqueria’s new spring menu, listen to live Mexican music, take a swing at a piñata, and maybe even kiss a donkey!

Toloache 251 West 50th Street nr. 8th Ave. Toloache 82 162 East 82nd Street nr. Lexington Ave. Try the “French Invasion” Margarita made with tequila, tarragon, spring peas and lime or the “Mexican Passion” margarita made with pineapple, horseradish and Valentina sauce. To soak it all up, Medina is offering a $50 menu which includes adobo-marinated sea bass, skirt steak fajitas, and more. Each entrée is served with rice and beans, Toloache salad, corn tortillas, and a trio of salsas. Everything is served family style, so bring friends and make it a true Cinco de Mayo party!

Pampano 209 East 49th Street nr. Third Ave. 

If you're on a budget, this is the place for you! Forget happy hour, Pampano is offering drink specials from 5pm-close including $6 margaritas & cocktails and $4 cervezas. Not feeling so crazy? Head straight to the dining room for a special 5-course Cinco de Mayo menu for $50 or $75 with wine or Latin cocktail pairings. 

Flex Mussels 154 W. 13^th Street nr. 6th Ave. & 174 E 82nd Street nr. Lexington Ave. Stop by this Saturday for a huge pot of Fiesta Mussels for $24,  a one-day special that combines a tequila-infused broth with sweet shrimp, bell peppers, lime, and japaleno. No trip to Flex Mussels is complete without dessert from Zac Young, so make sure to save room for the drunken margarita-custard filled doughnuts.

Suenos 311 West 17^th Street nr. 8th Ave.
If you're heading to your standard Saturday brunch, make it a little caliente on Cinco de Mayo where the fiesta kicks off at noon. Chef Sue Torre’s  will be dishing out breakfast burritos, chilaquiles with sunny-side up eggs and salsa verde and eggs benedict with chochinita pibil, and coconut-habanero shrimp tacos. Finish it all off with churros, sweet tamales and tres leches. Ariba!

Maya NY 1191 First Avenue nr. 64th Street
We recommend Maya for delicious, authentic uptown Mexican fare quite frequently, and the added bonus is they have 150 tequilas in the house! On Saturday from 6-10pm Maya will be jamming to a live mariachi band and handcrafted margaritas. Doors open at 3pm  at the tequila bar so when you are properly sauces from delish margaritas, head to dinner in the dining room for a $50 prix-fixe menu which includes an achiote marinated filet mignon and tequila flambe shrimp. 

Dos Caminos Various locations, see website
The fiesta starts on Friday and ends on Sunday, so you know if you go with Dos Caminos, you will be in good hands. They have a DJ lineup at all three locations, tons of special eats including a lobster guacamole ($24) and margaritas, galore. If you're looking for something a little crazier, the 27th & Park and MePa location are for you. If you're looking for something a little more low-key, hit up the Midtown resto.