Friday, September 7, 2012

Chefs wEE Love: Ben Lee, Nicoletta

 Ben Lee, Executive Chef
Photo: A. Medvin, Eatery Expert
He's 33, he is a protégé of Michael White's school of Marea culinary madness, and he makes a delicious pizza pie. He's Ben Lee, the Executive Chef of the new East Village hot spot Nicoletta. It's all about the up-and-comers these days in the NYC restaurant scene and Lee is definitely one to keep your eye on. Not only does he know how to throw that dough around with the greatest of ease, he's a really nice guy too. I sat down with Chef Lee over a delicious Salsiccia pie to discuss his favorite pizza, learning Italian cuisine in Italy and where he loves to get the best Korean food in NYC. by Joleen Zanuzoski

Q: What is your background? You don't look like the typical pizzaiolo we're used to seeing around these parts! 
I'm Korean-American. My parent's immigrated to the United States from South Korea and we lived in Chicago for a while. 
Credit: A. Medvin, Eatery Expert

Q: Oh - I love Chicago. Any great deep-dish recommendations? 
I remember really liking Lou Mainati's. It's been years since I've been there.

Q: Any great Korean restaurant recommendations since you grew up with the real deal right at home? 
Han Bat (35 West 35th nr. 6th Ave.) in Koreatown is great - I love the scallion pancake and you can add seafood and other things, but I just like it the simple way. It's basically Korea's take on the pizza. 

Q: Where do you live in NYC and what are your favorite places to eat in your hood?
I have lived in Astoria for the past three years and I really enjoy HinoMaru for Japanese (33-18 Ditmars Blvd nr. 35th St.) and Los Amigos (2273 31st Street nr. Newtown Ave.) for Mexican.

Q:What was it like working under Michael White at Marea? Must have been a-mazing! 
I still learn so much from Chef [Michael White]. He always says "This is a marathon, not a sprint" and emphasizes that patience is key for a chef. Also, he has taught me about tenacity and to always keep going, despite setbacks. He is a genius and knows what he is doing and most importantly knows good food. 

Q: You lived and worked in Italy to learn more about Italian cooking. Tell me more! 
It was an amazingly educational experience. I was living in this northern Italian town called Bergamo in the Lombardy region. It was great to learn from [the source] about Italian cooking and ingredients. 
Photo: A. Medvin, Eatery Expert

Q: What is the secret to making really great pizza?
Don't rush the dough and don't load on tons of ingredients. Keep it simple and you will get a really delicious result.

Q: What are you cooking when you're not making pizzas?
I honestly cook a lot of Italian food all the time. I cook at home a lot and have been making a lot of handmade, egg-based pastas. I love to make fettucine and tagliolini and mix in some nice tomatoes, good extra virgin olive oil and other fresh, seasonal ingredients. Keeping it simple is what I like best - it gives tribute to the ingredients. 

Q: Nicoletta has some really inventive pizzas on the menu with some seasonal options.  Will the specialty pizzas change with the seasons? 
Salsiccia pizza, Nicoletta
Credit: A. Medvin, Eatery Expert
Definitely. I try to use the Union Square Greenmarket as much as possible and find ingredients that pair well with the Wisconsin staples we will always use. I just got some really great heirloom tomatoes and corn from New Jersey at the market. They are both really in season now so we are showcasing them in the Estiva. It's a great, summery pie. Also the Fior di Zucca is topped with zucchini blossoms and grated summer squash - both awesome seasonal items. 

Q: What do you like to drink with your pizza? 
It depends. Right now I love pairing the seasonal pizzas with a nice prosecco or rosé. In the winter with a heavier, meaty pie I definitely like a nice red like a Barolo. Anything with sausage and a Barolo is awesome to me.

Q: A group of your friends are coming to Nicoletta for a feast. What are you going to serve them from start to finish? 
Photo: A. Medvin, Eatery Expert
I would begin with the suppli' (risotto, mozzarella, pork ragu) and buffalo mozzarella that features the summer corn from our assaggunu e sfizi ("small bites") menu. Also, the polpette (meatballs) are a must try. Chef [Michael White's] casarecci pasta is a great seasonal pasta dish to share before the pizza. It includes the summer corn and squash so it's great for the end of summer. For the pizzas, I love the spicy Salciccia pie - it has great Wisconsin mozzarella, fennel sausage which is Chef's [Michael White] recipe, calabrian chiles, broccoli rabe, tomatoes and garlic. It's perfect for people that like a little heat in their pie. Also the calabrese pizza is definitely meant for the meat-lovers.   

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