Chef Q&A: James Tracey, Craft and Colicchio & Sons

Chef James Tracey
Photo: Mark Jordan 

Though his basketball career never panned out quite the way he had originally planned, Chef James Tracey has made a hall-of-fame worthy name for himself off the court and in the kitchen both at Craft and Colicchio & Sons in New York. He started small at a bakery in Mesquite, Texas while in High School but after culinary school made a slam dunk by moving to New York and meeting Tom Colicchio at Gramercy Tavern. When given the opportunity, Tracey took the risky role of becoming Sous Chef as part of the opening team of Craft in 2001.  

Now as the Executive Chef ten years later, Tracey has earned Craft a James Beard Award for "Best New Restaurant", 3 stars from the NYTimes, and #5 ranking on Adam Platt's list of "New York City's 101 Best Restaurants" ahead of Gramercy Tavern, Daniel, and the even the Chef's Table at Brooklyn Fare. As if he's not busy enough with Craft, not to mention a wife and two daughters, Tracey recently accepted the role of Executive Chef of Colicchio & Sons and now oversees the staff and menu at both restaurants. By Sarah Mintz, Contributing Writer 

Eatery Expert: Congratulations on 10 years at craft and being ranked #5 in the Platt 101.

Craft's Artichoke Salad
Photo: Mark Jordan

James Tracey: Thanks so much. I definitely didn't expect it. I didn't even know about the article until it came out, since the last time it was published was in 2006.

EE: What did you want to be when you grew up?
JT: A basketball player, but I was also really into forestry.

EE: Do you still play?
JT:  I used to play on a team at Gramercy Tavern with Tom. Our toughest competition was Bobby Flay and the Mesa Grill team. Tribeca Grill was always good too.

EE: Where did your love of cooking stem from? 
JT: It really started at the Bakery with the hands on experience and seeing gratification from the customers.

EE: You're from Mesquite, TX. Would you consider going back?
JT: Never! My job, my wife's job, and my two daughters are all here. I'll visit Craft Dallas but that's about it.

EE: What is your ideal meal at Craft?

JT: I start with the Artichoke & Fennel Salad. It took a long time for everyone to learn how to cook it correctly but I love it.  Also the oysters are great to start the meal and since we go through them so quickly, we always have the freshest selection straight from the oyster beds. I'd also recommend the hamachi. It's always nice and a great compliment to the meal. The pork trotter and farm egg; we put this on the menu over four-and-a-half years ago and continue to get recognition for it. It's on the heavier side but done really well. 

I would have to include the suckling pig for 2. All different parts of the suckling pig are served including the loin, braised belly, confit shoulder and shank. Dealamann Farm provides us with the highest quality suckling pigs, usually around 18 pounds each. All of the parts are very complicated but the end product looks very simple. There is not much garnish to this dish but it's perfect every time. Also, the capon (castrated rooster) with black truffle: This dish can serve up to 4. First we take the breast off the bone, put sliced truffles underneath the skin, put the skin back on, and slowly roast it. We also stuff the leg with farce and truffles, then poach and roast it. The result is beautiful roulades of capon leg. We serve this dish with root vegetables and a port consommé over the top.

Craft's Roasted & Braised Suckling Pig
Photo: Mark Jordan

EE: What is the difference in menus between Craft vs. Colicchio & Sons?
JT: Craft is more family style where Colicchio & Sons dishes are plated.

EE:  Biggest celebrity in the restaurant?
JT:  Metallica was here recently- the whole group. That was pretty cool. It was great to have photographer Gregory Crewdson here, too. Also, we did a cooking demo with Drew Barrymore and her friends.

EE: Favorite restaurant in NY?
JT: I love certain parts of certain restaurants. For instance, I love the casual atmosphere, great bar, easy food and awesome people at Frankies in Brooklyn. I love the flavor profiles and hopping atmosphere at Kin Shop. I love watching Mark Iacono work his magic at Lucali. I love the great pasta and atmosphere at Il Buco Alimentaria.

EE: Best food city besides NY?
JT: DC is up and coming but I'd have to say San Francisco with Chicago as a close second.

EE: You balance two restaurants, a wife, and two daughters. What is your secret? 

JT: Little sleep, texting and a great nanny.

EE: How do you split your time Colicchio & Sons vs. Craft?
JT: 75% Colicchio & Sons and 25% Craft. Over the past year we've gotten a totally new crew at Colicchio & Sons. It takes a lot of time to train and get everyone up to speed. Colicchio & Sons is also a much bigger restaurant.

EE: Hardest ingredient to work with?
JT: People

EE: What is something customers don't know but should know about restaurants?
JT: What's involved with putting food on a plate.

EE: Three ingredients you can't live without?
JT: Garlic, pork belly and chicken bones.

EE: Favorite smell?

Colicchio & Sons Butter Poached Oysters with
Celery Root Tagliatelle & Caviar
Photo: Mark Jordan

JT: Lavender. I love pairing lavender with foie [gras] and apricots. I also really love the smell of honeysuckle and seared foie fat.

EE: Guilty food pleasure?

JT: Oreos. The ratio of cookie to cream is perfect and I love soaking them in milk until soft.


EE: Is there anything you won't eat?

JT: I'll try anything, but do I really want to eat cows brain? Not really but if you fry it up and put sauce on it, sure why not?

EE: Food trend you hate most?

JT: Food trucks.

EE: If you were to be on Iron Chef, what ingredient would you hope to be presented with?

JT: Capon.

EE: Favorite musician?

JT: Dwight Yoakam. He's a country singer from the 80's. He has a great voice and it's funky music. I might just like it because it was playing at Frankie's last night.

 EE: Where will you take your next vacation?

JT: Cape Cod. I usually take my wife and daughters for two weeks in August to sit on the beach and go razor clamming. 

Want to know what Chef James Tracey is serving up next? Follow @Craft_NewYork and @Colicchio_Sons  on Twitter or Like Craft and Colicchio & Sons on Facebook.  

Featured Request of the Day!

Request: Downtown Vegetarian friendly options 

Indochine's Pineapple Caparinha

EE's Recommendations:

1.  Indochine 430 Lafayette St. @ 4th St. I'll start off by saying that their cocktails are some of the best around!  Personal favorite - the Pineapple Caipirinha.  The great thing is that the food is incredible as well - the ultimate in exotic with both French and Vietnamese undertones. What is more perfect then that? They even have a section on their menu dedicated to vegetables for you or your vegetarian friend! Bon Appetit! 

2. Dirt Candy 430 East 9th St. @ Ave. A  You won't find meat on their menu, but you won't miss it either when you are here.  Everything about the place is unique including the menu which lists dishes based on the main ingredient.  The food is delicious and all vegetarian! wEE highly recommend corn.  Curious?  Check it out for yourself!

Veggie deliciousness at Dirt Candy

3. Northern Spy Food Company 511 East 12th Street nr. Avenue A The menu is built to fit the season. Whenever possible they are making your dishes with locally grown, raised, caught, and crafted products, procured from people who do those things with care. Don't you love that?! Not only is the food delicious, they have a robust beer and wine menu and a great cocktail list. Our favorite libation? The Salvadoran Fence - Jalapeno infused Lillet blanc, Punt e Mes, watermelon, basil, lime, Angostura bitters. Thirsty?

Featured Request of the Day!

Request:  Cocktails on the UES - great for a date!

EE's Recommendations

JBird Cocktails
Photo: New York Press

1. ABV 1504 Lexington Avenue nr. 97th St. Uptown, we know but your date will marvel at this choice for sure. This is a new addition to the UES and the wine and cocktail list are worth the shoe leather to get up there. The Piedmont Fizz and the Sippy Cup are excellent choices and if you guys are going the vino route, prices by the glass range from $5-$8. And they are GOOD. If you get the munchies, the food does not disappoint with a hearty selection of meats, cheeses and wood-fired pizzas.

2. JBird Cocktails 339 East 75th Street nr. 1st Ave. This hidden speakeasy is an offshoot of the Midtown location that has been around for years. If cocktails are your flavor, this is the place to be. Dimly lit, romantic, and the barkeeps know what they are doing. A full menu of fizzes, sours and old favorites fill the list - the Imperial March is my personal favorite. Yummy eats also available into the wee hours. 

3. Earl's Beer and Cheese 1259 Park Avenue nr. 97th St. We know - such a random location and your date might be like "whaaaa?!" but it makes this hidden gem extra special. Why is Earl's the hottest spot on the UES these days? Well, you feel like you're instantly transported to Williamsburg and are one among the BK-lookin' crowd. Very relaxed vibe for a more low key date night. If you two are beer drinkers this is the place - the beer list is no joke with several delicious options on tap, and the small plates are AWESOME. The Asian gnocci and beef? Such a treat. 

Cool Off! Summertime Cocktails in NYC

Our favorite barkeeps around town have created some seriously worthy seasonal beverages. When that humidity starts to kick into high gear and you don't know where to turn, refer to this list for instant cooling effects. I can't think of a better way to fight off the humidity then sipping on a cold beverage of something...and I'm not talking lemonade. Sometimes, you just need a cocktail. Hop into one of our favorite watering holes and grab a seat - these tasty libations are sure to cool you off in no time.
By Joleen Zanuzoski, Editor

ABV's Piedmont Fizz
Photo: Kathy Blake, The Experimental Gourmand 

ABV, Piedmont Fizz $9
1504 Lexington Avenue nr. 97th St. 
This new uptown gem serves up one of the most refreshing libations around - the Piedmont Fizz is served in a generous highball and filled to the brim with a white aperitif Italian wine (Cocci Americano), fennel, lemon and club soda. Sit back on the patio and watch the world go by.

The Tippler, Top Cat $10
425 West 15th Street nr. Tenth Ave.
This recent Chelsea addition to the cocktail scene is mixing things up in a big way and the Top Cat is a perfect summertime fruity sipper to get the night started. Sicilian liquor Averna amaro, fresh strawberries, lemon and Fanta Orange soda. Hello, summer.

Apotheke's Fresh Start
Photo: Christina Garofalo, Robb Report

Apotheke, Fresh Start $13
9 Doyers Street #1 nr. Bowery
What could be more refreshing on a hot summer's eve than a libation called a Fresh Start? It's perfection all around - carrot, celery, gin, oregano essence, ginger, agave nectar and lime. It's even in the health & beauty section of the lengthy Apotheke menu - think of this cocktail as naughty juicing.

ABC Kitchen, Rhubarb Cosmopolitan $14 
35 East 18th Street nr. Broadway
Rhubarb straight from some New York farmer that has been muddled into your martini glass, mixed with comb honey vodka and cointreau. It will be difficult to swallow one of those diluted cranberry juice concoctions once again after you taste this seasonal version - we have to say it's far superior to the classic.

Red Rooster's Rooster Punch
Photo: Marcus Samuelsson 

Red Rooster, Rooster Punch $15
310 Lenox Avenue nr. 125th St. 
Sit out on the amazing patio in the middle of bustling Harlem as you sip on Chef Marcus Samuelsson's special punch concoction (red wine, brandy, orange liqueur and fresh citrus). Feeling saucy? Order the pitcher of punch for $56 and forget about any plans you made for the rest of the day. Yes, it sure does pack a punch.

Demi Monde's Gun Metal Cocktail
Photo: Scott James Teague

Demi Monde, Gun Metal $14

90 Broad Street nr. Stone St. 

FiDi - you're getting so hip we can hardly keep up! The much anticipated opening by Alex Day and David Kaplan (founders of Death & Co.) has finally arrived and we are that much better (and tipsy) because of it. Hands down, the most summery and refreshing (read: girly) is the Gun Metal - gin, watermelon blanc, bitters and absinthe mist. What could be better than an absinthe mist in the dog days of summer? Not much.


The Rusty Knot, Rusty Knot $8
425 West Street nr. W. 11th Street
This nautical-inspired dive on the West Side Highway serves up the most tropical of cocktails, all with a tiki theme. The signature drink of the house is a frozen Trinidadian mint daiquiri made with fresh mint, rum and a touch of sour mix. Sip on this tipple and then take a nice walk down the Hudson River - summer never felt so right.

Macao Trading Co.'s Bashful Maiden

Macao Trading Co, Bashful Maiden $15

311 Church Street nr. Lispenard St. 

Yes, you feel like you're in a Chinese brothel which may or may not be your thing in the hot summer months, but regardless the Bashful Maiden is there to cool you off. This drink has been a staple in my cocktail repertoire for many years - something about the mix of Hendrick's gin, St. Germain, Velvet Falurnun (an infusion of yumminess - spices, lime juice, sugar cane and rum), lemon juice and pureed striped melon just makes all things right in the world. It also makes me forget about the den of vice lurking downstairs - proceed with caution. 

Featured Request of the Day!

Request:  Group birthday dinner for 15 people. Cheap and yummy!


EE's Recommendations:

1.  Mercadito 179 Avenue B nr. 12th Street I love Mercadito for large groups because they have a menu that is just for sharing for parties of 7 or more! You can pick a price point of $30-$45 per person and you get all different types of their delicious Mexican food. Everything from their guacamoles to their ceviches and tacos are unreal.

2.  Macondo 157 East Houston Street nr. Allen St. Amazing latin small plates with delicious Latin cocktails for all to enjoy. Order a bunch of latin small plates and enjoy! They also offer a prix fixe dinner for $40 a person and there's more food than you could ever imagine!  wEE recommend ordering the their infamous drink, porron to begin the night!


3.  Rubirosa 235 Mulberry Street nr. Prince St. If you are a lover of Italian comfort food, you've come to the right place.Our favorite pie? The pizza with vodka sauce.  They offer an Italian family style meal for $35 a person!

Best Outdoor Happy Hours in NYC

New Yorkers - we've been cooped up long enough. Rooftop, patio and garden season in NYC is officially in full swing so get out there early and head to one of these awesome happy hour destinations. by Sarah Mintz, Contributing Writer

Best Friday Happy Hour         

SkyRoom 330 West 40th Street nr. 9th Ave.

Need a Friday happy hour to kick off your weekend the right way? SkyRoom has got you covered. From 5-8pm, choose from buy one,get one free $5 bottled beer, $7 well drinks and wine by the glass and other daily specials. With food specials like $5 calamari and bruschetta and $8 truffle fries and pizza, you might want to stay even longer for the music, sunset and scene.

wEE recommend: Check out SkyRoom's daily specials, including Tuesday nights sponsored by Jose Cuervo. This means half price margarita carafes and pitchers and $7 Jose Cuervo margaritas all night. Wednesday morning might be a rough one, so plan accordingly. 

Best Weekend Happy Hour

Boxcar Lounge 168 Avenue B nr. 11th St.

A weekend happy hour deal in NYC? How about a happy hour deal you can enjoy outdoors? We've found just the place. You might want to keep the Boxcar Lounge and its secret garden on the hush, especially when you hear the deal that comes with it. From 2-8pm on Saturday and Sunday, drinks are two-for-one. It’s that perfect. 

wEE recommend: Take advantage of their unique BYOB (Bring Your Own Brunch) deal– you bring your own delicious brunch and Boxcar Lounge supplies the drinks.

Best Place for Oysters & Wine

Mermaid Inn 568 Amsterdam Avenue nr. 88th St.

Happy hour doesn't only happen downtown. The Mermaid Inn on the UWS offers a daily happy hour 5:30-7:00pm where East Coast oysters are only $1, West Coast oysters are $1.75 and bar bites are as cheap as $3. Pair up your snacks with a draft beer for $5, glass of $6 wine or cocktail for $7 on the outdoor patio. Does the thought of traveling uptown give you anxiety? If so, you're in luck since the other two branches in the East Village and Greenwich Village share the same happy hour options.

wEE recommend: The $3 shrimp corndogs and the $7 sliders - they are a delicious steal.

Best Scenic Walk

Half King 505 West 23rd Street nr. 10th Ave.

After a leisurely afternoon walk along the Highline, head to the super casual Half King for happy hour from 5-8pm and enjoy your libation on the front patio or in the back garden. This deal includes $4 beers and $7 drink specials including Manhattans on Monday, Gimlets on Tuesday, Dark & Stormies on Wednesday, Pimms Lemonade on Thursday and Kamikazes on Friday. Drink up! 

Best Rooftop Happy Hour

Brass Monkey 55 Little West 12th Street nr. 10th Ave. Don’t think you need to spend $15 for a cocktail every time you’re in MePa. The Brass Monkey is an anomaly to most bars in the area, offering a very casual atmosphere and happy hour with $2 off all wine and the Monkey offers over 75 beer options everyday from 12-7pm. You can’t beat the view of the Hudson either!

wEE recommend: Go early or expect a line - this place is no secret and the roof gets crowded fast!

Best Date Spot

Ninth Ward 180 2nd Avenue nr. 12th St.

Hang out near the fountain on the back patio for a more intimate evening or grab a table out front for a first date to remember. Regardless where you sit or what day of the week it is, make sure you arrive before 8pm to take advantage of 2-for-1 drinks.

wEE recommend: Impress your date by grabbing a table out back near the fountain where tables are candlelit and music plays in the background.

Best Mexican Happy Hour

Ofrenda 113 7th Avenue nr. Christopher St.

This West Village happy hour is hard to beat with $4 beers and $5 margaritas, wine and sangria everyday until 7pm. Drinks are potent so be sure to order a few antojitos from the happy hour menu as well. All seven antojitos are only $6.50, so chow down.

wEE recommend: The chorizo nachos are a must order!

Best Happy Hour for Large Groups

Pera Soho 54 Thompson Street nr. Broome St.

Pera Midtown has become a Mediterranean destination over the years and the new Soho location is quickly making a name for itself, especially with the debut of its new outdoor patio. With happy hour everyday and an outdoor area that holds a large crowd, Pera Soho makes the perfect destination for a group get together. Cocktails, wine and beer are $6 and any two mezes off the happy hour list are also only $6.

wEE recommend:  Our favorite mezes are the smoked eggplant, classic hummus and fried mussels. 

Best Dinner & Drinks 

Spina 175 Avenue B nr. 11th St.

Not your typical happy hour destination, Spina exudes comfort with an interior of exposed brick, dim lighting and the smell of homemade pasta. However, you'll feel just as comfortable on the outdoor patio of this neighborhood spot once you hear the happy hour specials. From 5:30-8:00pm Tuesday through Friday, choose from a selection of beers ($3) and wine ($6) while noshing on the happy hour mussels and meatballs ($5). The mussels come in a flavorful white wine broth and the 6 meatballs include a mix of veal, beef and pork - you can't go wrong with either option.  

wEE recommend: The complimentary foccacia with truffled ricotta spread is worth the trip alone!