Chefs wEE Love: Ben Lee, Nicoletta

 Ben Lee, Executive Chef
Photo: A. Medvin, Eatery Expert

He's 33, he is a protégé of Michael White's school of Marea culinary madness, and he makes a delicious pizza pie. He's Ben Lee, the Executive Chef of the new East Village hot spot Nicoletta. It's all about the up-and-comers these days in the NYC restaurant scene and Lee is definitely one to keep your eye on. Not only does he know how to throw that dough around with the greatest of ease, he's a really nice guy too. I sat down with Chef Lee over a delicious Salsiccia pie to discuss his favorite pizza, learning Italian cuisine in Italy and where he loves to get the best Korean food in NYC. by Joleen Zanuzoski

Q: What is your background? You don't look like the typical pizzaiolo we're used to seeing around these parts! 
I'm Korean-American. My parent's immigrated to the United States from South Korea and we lived in Chicago for a while. 

Credit: A. Medvin, Eatery Expert

Q: Oh - I love Chicago. Any great deep-dish recommendations? 
I remember really liking Lou Mainati's. It's been years since I've been there.

Q: Any great Korean restaurant recommendations since you grew up with the real deal right at home? 
Han Bat (35 West 35th nr. 6th Ave.) in Koreatown is great - I love the scallion pancake and you can add seafood and other things, but I just like it the simple way. It's basically Korea's take on the pizza. 

Q: Where do you live in NYC and what are your favorite places to eat in your hood?
I have lived in Astoria for the past three years and I really enjoy HinoMaru for Japanese (33-18 Ditmars Blvd nr. 35th St.) and Los Amigos (2273 31st Street nr. Newtown Ave.) for Mexican.

Q:What was it like working under Michael White at Marea? Must have been a-mazing! 
I still learn so much from Chef [Michael White]. He always says "This is a marathon, not a sprint" and emphasizes that patience is key for a chef. Also, he has taught me about tenacity and to always keep going, despite setbacks. He is a genius and knows what he is doing and most importantly knows good food. 

Q: You lived and worked in Italy to learn more about Italian cooking. Tell me more! 
It was an amazingly educational experience. I was living in this northern Italian town called Bergamo in the Lombardy region. It was great to learn from [the source] about Italian cooking and ingredients. 

Photo: A. Medvin, Eatery Expert

Q: What is the secret to making really great pizza?
Don't rush the dough and don't load on tons of ingredients. Keep it simple and you will get a really delicious result.

Q: What are you cooking when you're not making pizzas?
I honestly cook a lot of Italian food all the time. I cook at home a lot and have been making a lot of handmade, egg-based pastas. I love to make fettucine and tagliolini and mix in some nice tomatoes, good extra virgin olive oil and other fresh, seasonal ingredients. Keeping it simple is what I like best - it gives tribute to the ingredients. 

Q: Nicoletta has some really inventive pizzas on the menu with some seasonal options.  Will the specialty pizzas change with the seasons? 

Salsiccia pizza, Nicoletta
Credit: A. Medvin, Eatery Expert

Definitely. I try to use the Union Square Greenmarket as much as possible and find ingredients that pair well with the Wisconsin staples we will always use. I just got some really great heirloom tomatoes and corn from New Jersey at the market. They are both really in season now so we are showcasing them in the Estiva. It's a great, summery pie. Also the Fior di Zucca is topped with zucchini blossoms and grated summer squash - both awesome seasonal items. 

Q: What do you like to drink with your pizza? 
It depends. Right now I love pairing the seasonal pizzas with a nice prosecco or rosé. In the winter with a heavier, meaty pie I definitely like a nice red like a Barolo. Anything with sausage and a Barolo is awesome to me.

Q: A group of your friends are coming to Nicoletta for a feast. What are you going to serve them from start to finish? 

Photo: A. Medvin, Eatery Expert

I would begin with the suppli' (risotto, mozzarella, pork ragu) and buffalo mozzarella that features the summer corn from our assaggunu e sfizi ("small bites") menu. Also, the polpette (meatballs) are a must try. Chef [Michael White's] casarecci pasta is a great seasonal pasta dish to share before the pizza. It includes the summer corn and squash so it's great for the end of summer. For the pizzas, I love the spicy Salciccia pie - it has great Wisconsin mozzarella, fennel sausage which is Chef's [Michael White] recipe, calabrian chiles, broccoli rabe, tomatoes and garlic. It's perfect for people that like a little heat in their pie. Also the calabrese pizza is definitely meant for the meat-lovers.   

Chefs wEE Love: Amanda Cohen, Dirt Candy (East Village)

Chef Amanda Cohen, Dirt Candy
Photo: Stephen Elledge

A Creative, Chic Way to Eat Your Vegetables - Eat Dirt Candy

by Alexi Melvin, Contributing Writer 

Chef Amanda Cohen's rebellious preparation of vegetables has taken Manhattan by storm, in the form of Dirt Candy, her restaurant in the East Village. The restaurant is small, chic and inviting. The dim purple lighting and simple decor give it a modern twist. As diners enjoy Chef Cohen’s creations, they can watch the culinary artist at work a mere ten feet away from their tables. Also, to add to her superpowers of being a masterful chef and restaurant owner, she is releasing her first cookbook tomorrow, Dirt Candy: A Cookbook: Flavor-Forward Food from the Upstart New York City Vegetarian Restaurant. 

Dirt Candy: A Cookbook
Photo: Clarkson Potter

The appetizers and entrees at Dirty Candy are named after their defining ingredients. During my recent visit to Dirt Candy, I was presented with the "Pepper" dish; a yellow pepper soup with smoky red pepper mousse and jalapeno chips. The "Tomato" dish was my favorite. Smoked feta enveloped in a tomato cake, cherry tomato leather, and a spring herb puree. Finally, I enjoyed the "Bean" dish, an addition to the menu that I did not notice on their website before visiting. A very pleasant surprise! Coconut tofu over green beans, accompanied by rice cookies with a bean mousse inside. Everything was absolutely delicious and unique to my tastebuds.

Pepper!
Yellow pepper soup with red pepper mousse
and jalapeno chips

In our interview, Chef Cohen talks veggies, and gives us the scoop on being the Chef/Owner of one of the top rated vegetarian restaurants in NYC.

First of all, tell us where the name "Dirt Candy" came from.

It’s a restaurant-eat-restaurant world out there so I wanted a name that people would remember. Plenty of places go for the random assemblage of letters and numbers (SPX 12), there’s the proper noun name (Fork, Table, Salt), the foreign word name (Mangia, Voltare, Kishu), and there’s the name name (Mary Anne’s, Thompson’s). I wanted something different, and since vegetables are candy from the dirt, I figured that Dirt Candy would be memorable, at the very least, even if people hated it. Now I’m seeing it pop up everywhere online as a reference to vegetables.

Tomato!
Smoked feta in a tomato cake, cherry tomato leather, spring
herb puree

How would you describe Dirty Candy to someone who isn't necessarily a "foodie?"

It’s a vegetable restaurant that doesn’t care about your politics, your health, or what you had for lunch. At Dirt Candy, the only thing we care about is cooking great vegetables.

So many people don't have enough appreciation for vegetables. Why are vegetables so important and unique to you as a chef?

Vegetables are the Wild West of cooking right now. No one is doing anything with them. Lots of people are cooking offal, and game, and seafood, but no one is just focusing exclusively on vegetables. The bad part about that is that I’m not considered “cool” by the press, but that’s far outweighed by the awesome part of that, which is that I’m on this roller coaster all alone, no one telling me what I can and can’t do, no one arguing with me, or telling me the “proper” way to do anything. Dirt Candy is my laboratory and every day I get to experiment a little more, pushing the boundaries of what can be done with vegetables.

Inside Dirt Candy
Photo: Michael Harlan Turkell

Were there certain moments throughout your career that served as inspiration for the concept of Dirt Candy?

Not to sound totally selfish, but Dirt Candy was made just for me. I’ve been cooking professionally for close to 15 years and over that time I’ve worked for, or consulted on, a lot of restaurants in New York City. In all that time I learned a lot, some of it about what NOT to do and a lot of it about what worked and what didn’t on the plate. I became convinced that there was a huge hole in the market where people who just wanted good vegetables weren’t being served. So Dirt Candy was the first time I could put my theories into action, and not listen to anyone else who was peddling conventional wisdom. Fortunately, I’ve turned out to be at least half right.

Your menu is constantly changing, but which few dishes would you say you have been the most proud of?

You’re asking me to choose between my children! But the most popular dishes over the years have been the Stone-ground Grits with Tempura Poached Egg, the Portobello Mousse with Truffled Toast and Pear & Fennel Compote, and the Cauliflower and Waffles with Horseradish Sauce. And people keep asking me when we’re going to bring back the Candied Grapefruit Pops.

Dirt Candy, street view
Photo: Michael Harlan Turkell

Is there a certain type of crowd that usually visits the restaurant, or is it a mixed bag?

I’ve been really lucky to have a mixed crowd here. I’d say about half my customers are people who are either vegetarian or vegan, but the other half are people who just like good food.

What are your top three favorite restaurants in the city? 

I really love Legend, a Sichuan place on Seventh Avenue that serves my favorite Chinese food in Manhattan right now. Going to Brooklyn scares me, plus I’m lazy, but La Vara in Cobble Hill does fried food like nobody’s business. Their fried artichokes and the crispy chickpeas alone were worth the trip. And whenever I’m feeling fancy, Dovetail on the Upper West Side is the place to go. It always feels like a special Sunday dinner with Mom and Dad, which is not a bad thing. Sometimes it’s really nice to pull on your big girl pants and be an adult having a super-mature, sophisticated meal.

Who are some other chefs that you admire?

Most of the chefs who inspire me, or who mean a lot to me, aren’t the famous ones. The people who have changed my career and my life have been the other women working in professional kitchens who I’ve had the privilege of working alongside. You won’t read about them in a magazine, but people like Glory Mongin and Debbie Lee really changed how I work and the way I approach food.

After competing on Iron Chef America, are there any other TV shows that you'd be interested in appearing on?

I’m not built for reality TV. It takes me a long time and a lot of experimentation to get a dish the way I want it. But if they ever have challenges that last 3 months, let me know. That’s about my speed.

What are some of your guilty pleasures?

I’m incapable of feeling guilty about pleasure.

When you aren't cooking, what are you doing?

Sleeping.

Which cities in the world that you've visited have the best food?

I think you can find great food anywhere, but Hong Kong is where I really fell in love with vegetables.

If you were stranded on an island and could only have three food staples with you, what would you choose?

I’d choose to have tequila and triple sec (I’m counting that as one item), limes, and a gun. That way I could have a really, really nice margarita and then shoot myself. I don’t want to be stranded on a desert island!

If you could invite any celebrity to dine at your restaurant, who would it be?

President Obama, because…are you kidding me? He’s the president!



         ______________________________________________________________________

Alexi Melvin is a writer and an actress in NYC. She graduated from the prestigious Lee Strasberg Institute, and is currently getting her Bachelors Degree in Liberal Arts at The New School. Her passions include classic films, musical theatre, discovering great restaurants and traveling.

Chefs wEE Love: How do you Cool Off, Chef?

New York - it's hot. When we're not dodging Miami-like afternoon thunderstorms and wiping our brow on the subway platforms, we're itching to cool off with something delicious, and we don't mean air conditioning. We're talking something thirst-quenching or mouth-watering. Some of our favorite restauranteurs, chefs and bartenders shared their favorite ways to cool off in the warm summer months - we'll give it a whirl. by Joleen Zanuzoski

Andy Ricker, Pok Pok Wing
137 Rivington Street nr. Suffolk St. 
This cool cat from Portland has brought his knowledge of Thailand to us and boy - how delicious it is! How 'bout those wings, New York? When we asked Andy Ricker how he likes to cool off in the warm summer months when he's not traveling to Southeast Asia and back and living a bi-coastal existence, his response was classic - "I like to fill my underwear with ice and watch March of the Penguins." While he luxuriates in his chilly panties, he enjoys snacking on Creamsicles. Brrrrr!

Scott James Teague, Demi Monde 

90 Broad Street nr. Stone St. 

This former Pegu Club barkeep is shaking things up in the Financial District, creating delicious cocktails and libations at the recently opened speakeasy/lounge/den of vice, Demi Monde. Close friends and patrons call him "Scotch" which is wildly apropos considering on the summer weekends, he can be found on the water in Connecticut "drinking iced cold beer and warm whiskey. The beer keeps me hydrated and the whiskey keeps me drunk." Spoken like a true man of his craft and another reason to trust anything he mixes up for us. 

Photo: Evan Sung    

Ed Schoenfeld, Red Farm
529 Hudson Street nr. 10th St. 
This Chinese food aficionado and successful restauranteur can be seen gracefully turning down hundreds of foodie hopefuls every night that are trying to snag one of Red Farm's coveted forty seats. What he does to cool off between turning tables and organizing his seating chart on his high-powered iPad? "On hot summer evenings after getting home from work I like to sit on my screened-in porch and enjoy a rose-flavored jasmine iced tea." 

Jehangir Mehta, Mehtaphor 
130 Duane Street nr. Church St. 
Chef Mehta, known for his South Asian fusion cooking at East Village's Graffiti and TriBeCa's Mehtaphor, there is usually nothing mild about his cooking - it's always robust in flavor and playful in nature. With the exotic spices and herbs, French technique and whimsical surroundings, Mehta brings it every time. When he's not heating up the kitchen (and our palates), he loves "slashing open a fresh coconut and gulping it down then scrapping the tender flesh." Even his cool-down method sounds enchanting - another reason we love him.

Julian Medina, Coppelia 
207 West 14th Street nr. Seventh Ave. 
Medina has taken over sophisticated Latin cuisine in NYC with his Midtown staple Toloache, downtown Yerba Buena and Yerba Buena Perry and the new Upper East Side Toloache 82. When he's not overseeing his restaurant empire, he likes to "cool off with a nice Michelada - Dos XX beer, lime juice and hot sauce over ice - and a simple, cold shrimp ceviche." Another reason to love Medina - he's spicy even when he's not in the kitchen - Ole!

Brian Bartels, Fedora
239 West 4th Street nr. Charles St.  
If I could pick anywhere in the West Village to cool off, it would be in the cozy confines of Fedora. The perfect haunt for early evening or late night cocktails, you can usually find head barman and libation aficionado Brian Bartels sipping on a refreshing gin and tonic. "I never used to drink them but I went to Spain with Chef Mehdi [Brunet-Benkritly] and Gabriel [Stulman], the way they prepared gin and tonics brought a new found appreciation. In Spain, they use tongs to grab the ice and serve serve them in big Burgundy goblets. So badass." You can find Bartels mixing up the finest G&Ts around with Fever Tree gin, but he loves experimenting and "playing around" with different gins all the time. Love it! 

Carmen Quagliata, Union Square Cafe
21 East 16th Street nr. Broadway

Chef Quagliata is an expert of Italian cuisine that has built a name for himself as executive chef and partner at one of the most well-respected restaurants in New York. If you've savored one of his insanely delicious seasonal pasta dishes, you know it's a true culinary experience. When he's not dishing out lobster ravioli, roasted pork pappardelle and fried veal brains, he likes to cool off with one of nature's most refreshing treats. "I always have a watermelon halved and I scoop it out with a spoon like sorbet, right out of the fridge, standing with the door open.” 

Oliver Gift, Lowcountry

142 West 10th Street nr. Greenwich Ave. 

With an amazing pedigree as the former sous chef of Commerce and learning from Dan Barber at Blue Hill at Stone Barns, this chef is one to keep your eye on especially with the hearty Southern comfort food he is creating at Lowcountry in the West Village. He's created a menu filled with sophisticated Southern fare with a focus on seafood. When he's not throwing one of Lowcountry's summer lobster boils on Sunday and Monday, he likes to cool off at the driving range at Chelsea Piers while drinking home made sun tea lemonade. How does Chef Gift cool off when he gets out of the kitchen? "I hop on my bike after work and head to Chinatown for my favorite late night snack - beef chow fun & black bean sauce. I bring it back to my place and enjoy it from my fire escape, [watching] what the East Village has to offer at 3am." Sounds like a plan to us! 

Chef Q&A: James Tracey, Craft and Colicchio & Sons

Chef James Tracey
Photo: Mark Jordan 

Though his basketball career never panned out quite the way he had originally planned, Chef James Tracey has made a hall-of-fame worthy name for himself off the court and in the kitchen both at Craft and Colicchio & Sons in New York. He started small at a bakery in Mesquite, Texas while in High School but after culinary school made a slam dunk by moving to New York and meeting Tom Colicchio at Gramercy Tavern. When given the opportunity, Tracey took the risky role of becoming Sous Chef as part of the opening team of Craft in 2001.  

Now as the Executive Chef ten years later, Tracey has earned Craft a James Beard Award for "Best New Restaurant", 3 stars from the NYTimes, and #5 ranking on Adam Platt's list of "New York City's 101 Best Restaurants" ahead of Gramercy Tavern, Daniel, and the even the Chef's Table at Brooklyn Fare. As if he's not busy enough with Craft, not to mention a wife and two daughters, Tracey recently accepted the role of Executive Chef of Colicchio & Sons and now oversees the staff and menu at both restaurants. By Sarah Mintz, Contributing Writer 

Eatery Expert: Congratulations on 10 years at craft and being ranked #5 in the Platt 101.

Craft's Artichoke Salad
Photo: Mark Jordan

James Tracey: Thanks so much. I definitely didn't expect it. I didn't even know about the article until it came out, since the last time it was published was in 2006.

EE: What did you want to be when you grew up?
JT: A basketball player, but I was also really into forestry.

EE: Do you still play?
JT:  I used to play on a team at Gramercy Tavern with Tom. Our toughest competition was Bobby Flay and the Mesa Grill team. Tribeca Grill was always good too.

EE: Where did your love of cooking stem from? 
JT: It really started at the Bakery with the hands on experience and seeing gratification from the customers.

EE: You're from Mesquite, TX. Would you consider going back?
JT: Never! My job, my wife's job, and my two daughters are all here. I'll visit Craft Dallas but that's about it.

EE: What is your ideal meal at Craft?

JT: I start with the Artichoke & Fennel Salad. It took a long time for everyone to learn how to cook it correctly but I love it.  Also the oysters are great to start the meal and since we go through them so quickly, we always have the freshest selection straight from the oyster beds. I'd also recommend the hamachi. It's always nice and a great compliment to the meal. The pork trotter and farm egg; we put this on the menu over four-and-a-half years ago and continue to get recognition for it. It's on the heavier side but done really well. 

I would have to include the suckling pig for 2. All different parts of the suckling pig are served including the loin, braised belly, confit shoulder and shank. Dealamann Farm provides us with the highest quality suckling pigs, usually around 18 pounds each. All of the parts are very complicated but the end product looks very simple. There is not much garnish to this dish but it's perfect every time. Also, the capon (castrated rooster) with black truffle: This dish can serve up to 4. First we take the breast off the bone, put sliced truffles underneath the skin, put the skin back on, and slowly roast it. We also stuff the leg with farce and truffles, then poach and roast it. The result is beautiful roulades of capon leg. We serve this dish with root vegetables and a port consommé over the top.

Craft's Roasted & Braised Suckling Pig
Photo: Mark Jordan

EE: What is the difference in menus between Craft vs. Colicchio & Sons?
JT: Craft is more family style where Colicchio & Sons dishes are plated.

EE:  Biggest celebrity in the restaurant?
JT:  Metallica was here recently- the whole group. That was pretty cool. It was great to have photographer Gregory Crewdson here, too. Also, we did a cooking demo with Drew Barrymore and her friends.

EE: Favorite restaurant in NY?
JT: I love certain parts of certain restaurants. For instance, I love the casual atmosphere, great bar, easy food and awesome people at Frankies in Brooklyn. I love the flavor profiles and hopping atmosphere at Kin Shop. I love watching Mark Iacono work his magic at Lucali. I love the great pasta and atmosphere at Il Buco Alimentaria.

EE: Best food city besides NY?
JT: DC is up and coming but I'd have to say San Francisco with Chicago as a close second.

EE: You balance two restaurants, a wife, and two daughters. What is your secret? 

JT: Little sleep, texting and a great nanny.

EE: How do you split your time Colicchio & Sons vs. Craft?
JT: 75% Colicchio & Sons and 25% Craft. Over the past year we've gotten a totally new crew at Colicchio & Sons. It takes a lot of time to train and get everyone up to speed. Colicchio & Sons is also a much bigger restaurant.

EE: Hardest ingredient to work with?
JT: People

EE: What is something customers don't know but should know about restaurants?
JT: What's involved with putting food on a plate.

EE: Three ingredients you can't live without?
JT: Garlic, pork belly and chicken bones.

EE: Favorite smell?

Colicchio & Sons Butter Poached Oysters with
Celery Root Tagliatelle & Caviar
Photo: Mark Jordan

JT: Lavender. I love pairing lavender with foie [gras] and apricots. I also really love the smell of honeysuckle and seared foie fat.

EE: Guilty food pleasure?

JT: Oreos. The ratio of cookie to cream is perfect and I love soaking them in milk until soft.


EE: Is there anything you won't eat?

JT: I'll try anything, but do I really want to eat cows brain? Not really but if you fry it up and put sauce on it, sure why not?

EE: Food trend you hate most?

JT: Food trucks.

EE: If you were to be on Iron Chef, what ingredient would you hope to be presented with?

JT: Capon.

EE: Favorite musician?

JT: Dwight Yoakam. He's a country singer from the 80's. He has a great voice and it's funky music. I might just like it because it was playing at Frankie's last night.

 EE: Where will you take your next vacation?

JT: Cape Cod. I usually take my wife and daughters for two weeks in August to sit on the beach and go razor clamming. 

Want to know what Chef James Tracey is serving up next? Follow @Craft_NewYork and @Colicchio_Sons  on Twitter or Like Craft and Colicchio & Sons on Facebook.