Chef Q&A: James Tracey, Craft and Colicchio & Sons

Chef James Tracey
Photo: Mark Jordan 

Though his basketball career never panned out quite the way he had originally planned, Chef James Tracey has made a hall-of-fame worthy name for himself off the court and in the kitchen both at Craft and Colicchio & Sons in New York. He started small at a bakery in Mesquite, Texas while in High School but after culinary school made a slam dunk by moving to New York and meeting Tom Colicchio at Gramercy Tavern. When given the opportunity, Tracey took the risky role of becoming Sous Chef as part of the opening team of Craft in 2001.  

Now as the Executive Chef ten years later, Tracey has earned Craft a James Beard Award for "Best New Restaurant", 3 stars from the NYTimes, and #5 ranking on Adam Platt's list of "New York City's 101 Best Restaurants" ahead of Gramercy Tavern, Daniel, and the even the Chef's Table at Brooklyn Fare. As if he's not busy enough with Craft, not to mention a wife and two daughters, Tracey recently accepted the role of Executive Chef of Colicchio & Sons and now oversees the staff and menu at both restaurants. By Sarah Mintz, Contributing Writer 

Eatery Expert: Congratulations on 10 years at craft and being ranked #5 in the Platt 101.

Craft's Artichoke Salad
Photo: Mark Jordan

James Tracey: Thanks so much. I definitely didn't expect it. I didn't even know about the article until it came out, since the last time it was published was in 2006.

EE: What did you want to be when you grew up?
JT: A basketball player, but I was also really into forestry.

EE: Do you still play?
JT:  I used to play on a team at Gramercy Tavern with Tom. Our toughest competition was Bobby Flay and the Mesa Grill team. Tribeca Grill was always good too.

EE: Where did your love of cooking stem from? 
JT: It really started at the Bakery with the hands on experience and seeing gratification from the customers.

EE: You're from Mesquite, TX. Would you consider going back?
JT: Never! My job, my wife's job, and my two daughters are all here. I'll visit Craft Dallas but that's about it.

EE: What is your ideal meal at Craft?

JT: I start with the Artichoke & Fennel Salad. It took a long time for everyone to learn how to cook it correctly but I love it.  Also the oysters are great to start the meal and since we go through them so quickly, we always have the freshest selection straight from the oyster beds. I'd also recommend the hamachi. It's always nice and a great compliment to the meal. The pork trotter and farm egg; we put this on the menu over four-and-a-half years ago and continue to get recognition for it. It's on the heavier side but done really well. 

I would have to include the suckling pig for 2. All different parts of the suckling pig are served including the loin, braised belly, confit shoulder and shank. Dealamann Farm provides us with the highest quality suckling pigs, usually around 18 pounds each. All of the parts are very complicated but the end product looks very simple. There is not much garnish to this dish but it's perfect every time. Also, the capon (castrated rooster) with black truffle: This dish can serve up to 4. First we take the breast off the bone, put sliced truffles underneath the skin, put the skin back on, and slowly roast it. We also stuff the leg with farce and truffles, then poach and roast it. The result is beautiful roulades of capon leg. We serve this dish with root vegetables and a port consommé over the top.

Craft's Roasted & Braised Suckling Pig
Photo: Mark Jordan

EE: What is the difference in menus between Craft vs. Colicchio & Sons?
JT: Craft is more family style where Colicchio & Sons dishes are plated.

EE:  Biggest celebrity in the restaurant?
JT:  Metallica was here recently- the whole group. That was pretty cool. It was great to have photographer Gregory Crewdson here, too. Also, we did a cooking demo with Drew Barrymore and her friends.

EE: Favorite restaurant in NY?
JT: I love certain parts of certain restaurants. For instance, I love the casual atmosphere, great bar, easy food and awesome people at Frankies in Brooklyn. I love the flavor profiles and hopping atmosphere at Kin Shop. I love watching Mark Iacono work his magic at Lucali. I love the great pasta and atmosphere at Il Buco Alimentaria.

EE: Best food city besides NY?
JT: DC is up and coming but I'd have to say San Francisco with Chicago as a close second.

EE: You balance two restaurants, a wife, and two daughters. What is your secret? 

JT: Little sleep, texting and a great nanny.

EE: How do you split your time Colicchio & Sons vs. Craft?
JT: 75% Colicchio & Sons and 25% Craft. Over the past year we've gotten a totally new crew at Colicchio & Sons. It takes a lot of time to train and get everyone up to speed. Colicchio & Sons is also a much bigger restaurant.

EE: Hardest ingredient to work with?
JT: People

EE: What is something customers don't know but should know about restaurants?
JT: What's involved with putting food on a plate.

EE: Three ingredients you can't live without?
JT: Garlic, pork belly and chicken bones.

EE: Favorite smell?

Colicchio & Sons Butter Poached Oysters with
Celery Root Tagliatelle & Caviar
Photo: Mark Jordan

JT: Lavender. I love pairing lavender with foie [gras] and apricots. I also really love the smell of honeysuckle and seared foie fat.

EE: Guilty food pleasure?

JT: Oreos. The ratio of cookie to cream is perfect and I love soaking them in milk until soft.


EE: Is there anything you won't eat?

JT: I'll try anything, but do I really want to eat cows brain? Not really but if you fry it up and put sauce on it, sure why not?

EE: Food trend you hate most?

JT: Food trucks.

EE: If you were to be on Iron Chef, what ingredient would you hope to be presented with?

JT: Capon.

EE: Favorite musician?

JT: Dwight Yoakam. He's a country singer from the 80's. He has a great voice and it's funky music. I might just like it because it was playing at Frankie's last night.

 EE: Where will you take your next vacation?

JT: Cape Cod. I usually take my wife and daughters for two weeks in August to sit on the beach and go razor clamming. 

Want to know what Chef James Tracey is serving up next? Follow @Craft_NewYork and @Colicchio_Sons  on Twitter or Like Craft and Colicchio & Sons on Facebook.